The convenience of working with an ordinary saw is determined by two characteristics, which you can influence.
This is the divorce and sharpening of the saw teeth.
As a rule, saws are already sold fully prepared for work, but in the process of work the tool wears out and sometimes deforms.
Let's start with the wiring of the teeth. Turn Saw To itself the opposite end, the oppositePosition the handle, and raise it to eye level. A qualitatively prepared tool shows that the teeth are slightly bent out of the way through one. The width of this "path" for different material is different. If the saw is used for wet wood, then the width of this groove should be 0.25-0.5 of the thickness of the saw blade. For dry wood can be and 2 thickness of the canvas. The tooth divorce is adjusted with a special "wedge" - an iron plate with transverse slots under the teeth.
Sharpening the teeth of the saw is just as simple. Secure Saw On anything, so that you feel comfortable. Many of the carpenters use a back bench for this. The hacksaws can be sharpened with a small triangular file.
Universal hacksaw, designed for bothLongitudinal cutting of wood, and for transverse, has teeth in shape as isosceles triangles, and such teeth are sharpened on both sides of the "triangle". Chamfers should be located on the inside of the tooth, depending on the wiring. The file is located at an angle of 60-70 degrees relative to the canvas.
Longitudinal hacksaws designed for cuttingAlong the fibers of the tree, have teeth that are slightly "slanted" in the direction from the handle to the toe and are sharpened only on one side opposite from the handle. The file is at an angle of 45 degrees. Saws with a more complex tooth configuration are sharpened as universal, at an angle of 60-70 degrees. Carefully look closely at how this saw was sharpened and just straighten the sharpener.