Cooper? It is such a profession that slowly goes to the past. Why should we buy tubs or tubs, when you can buy a good plastic container.
But the barrel is still alive? And still. And she does not strive to completely die out of life.
Salting any vegetables will be truly delicious and aromatic if produced in a good oak barrel.
Let's try to make a barrel ourselves. We begin with riveting. Let's choose wood. For pickling and souring, the barrel is best made from oak, the barrel for honey should be made of linden, chinar or aspen. You can take alder, poplar, alder. The bottom of the trunk of the old tree is usually used for riveting. Split in half chock, which is longer than the future riveting centimeters by 5. Each of the halves are pricked in half. And so on, until we get pieces of 5-10x2.5-3 cm.
Dry the preforms in well ventilatedIndoor month. Better ? more. Already dried billets are treated with a plow and a plane, starting with the riveting of the outer side of the rivet. Then we plan the sides. Finish the processing of the sidewalls with a jig
At the next stage, we process the inner surface of our riveting. Superfluous can be shaken by a plane or an ax. If the rivet width is different? Nothing wrong with that.
Now we make hoops. It is better to take steel. Take for them hot-rolled steel tape thickness of 1.5-2 mm, the width should be 30-50 mm. We measure the barrel in place of the supposed location of the hoop with a tolerance for the dimensions of the double width of the strip. With a hammer, attach the tape to the shape of the ring. We drill holes at its ends for rivets. At the location of the hoops are onions (center), choruses (edge) and cervical (intermediate).
Assembly. This process is carried out on a flat surface. To the hoop we fix 2 clamps, one opposite the other. Then put the riveting back to the previous ones, one at a time. And so until the hoop is filled with rivets. We check the density of the riveting edges.
Next, level the ends of the frame with a hammer and put on the 2nd hoop until it stops. At 2-3 mm from the chopping hoop we cut the skeleton and clean the ends of the rivet with the plane. In the same way we proceed with the other end of the barrel.
When tightening the hoops of the drum frame, no operations such as steaming or welding of the skeleton itself are required.
It remains to do donu. We collect the bottom shield from the melted and melted on the sides of the clover. We fasten the clover with the help of nails. Find the radius of the future bottom, and cut the bottom with a margin of 1-1.5 mm.
We loosen the hoop, insert the bottom and tap it to the stop. The bottom should not go tight. In this case, the hoop is weakened. If the bottom is loose? Tighten the hoop.
Now we need to make sure that we do not haveA barrel of cracks. Pour a little water and see if it flows somewhere. The leak between the riveting will tell you that the bottom needs to be reduced by overloading the excess. If the water runs right through the bottom, it will be necessary to disassemble the barrel and one of the rivets to narrow.
When nothing flows, establish a second bottom with an opening for infusion of 30-32 mm. We make a cork and put it in place. The barrel is ready.